Mat-Su Valley - Days in Transition

The Mat-Su Valley is actually two valleys, the Matanuska Valley and the Susitna Valley.  Locally the area is known as the Mat-Su. Thousands of years ago, glaciers carved the two valleys, leaving rich fertile soil behind.  This is what gives the area its wonderful farmland as well as the lakes and wetlands enjoyed by humans and animals alike.  As you head south on the Parks Highway from Denali, you will enter the Mat-Su Borough just before Talkeetna.

Boondocking on the Petersville Rd.

Our time in the Mat-Su would include several nights of camping off the grid.  In Alaska many seasoned RV travelers will "boondock" camp in pullouts along the highway or on side access roads seemingly created for this purpose.  During our first RV Adventure in 2010 we were hesitant to just pull over and overnight in the motor home.  In 2014 we did it a couple of times, including a delightful spot along the McCarthy Road along side a stream heading into Chitina.

This year, we felt like seasoned pros, although we did make a rookie mistake our second night in the Mat-Su.  Word to the wise, boondock camping is really not very good if you park in a turnout that is right on the highway!  We underestimated the amount of truck traffic for a Friday night.  Big haulers (two and three trailers long) traveled the highway throughout the night.  With earplugs, we eventually fell asleep and slept through the night until daybreak.

After leaving Denali National Park on Thursday, our next scheduled destination was the Bayside Campground in Valdez on Monday afternoon.  That provided us with ample time to make our way the roughly 400 miles.  More importantly, however, we had some leisurely time to visit places and do things that we hadn't had the luxury of time for in the past.

Hurricane Turn Flag Stop Train
The Alaska Railroad offers flag stop service from Talkeetna to Hurricane on a seasonally based schedule.  In addition to being the primary mode of transportation for those living on homesteads in remote bush villages, summer tourists can also take the six hour round-trip excursion as a sightseeing experience.

Having read and heard a lot about this great experience, I was very excited to add it to our travel plans.  Unfortunately, it didn't live up to the hype on Trip Advisor and Facebook largely due to the reassignment of the conductor who had really made the Hurricane Train interesting and enjoyable.  The two engineers attempted to fill in the slack created by this change in personnel, but it just wasn't the same as what others have experienced in year's past.

The sights were interesting, especially to see where people are living remotely, away from modern conveniences like grocery stores, roads and electricity.  During the summer many Alaskans use this train to get to their cabins where they can access fishing and hunting areas.  We met a few interesting people who had cabins along the route, but for the most part, people were pretty much stayed to themselves.

Sherman "City Hall" and Depot/Bookstore

The train did stop at a couple of places along the way, giving passengers a chance to visit with locals including an artist and an original homesteader who is also an author. Because it was raining and we weren't really interested in buying anything, we stayed on the train.  For anyone interested in reading more about the Hurricane Turn Train, check out this article written before Warren (the "good" conductor) was reassigned.  

Many people have seen bears and moose along the Hurricane Turn route.  Unfortunately for us, we didn't see much of any wildlife; only a swan's nest on a distant pond along the way.

For folks interested in doing this, tickets are $100 per person for the round-trip journey.  This year (and in year's past) there has been a 2:1 discount coupon in the Northern Lights discount book.  An  "Entertainment Book" type discount program, I have used N/L coupons many times over the years.  The savings on this one activity alone, more than makes the $45-$50 purchase worthwhile!  Further, if your travel is later in the summer season (say after July 1st or 15th) you may luck out and find a "used" book on eBay for less than half the original price.  I paid $34 (including postage) for mine, from a guy who did a cruise back in June.  Even better, I've payed it forward, giving the book to my sister who will be doing an Alaskan cruise later this month!

Talkeetna
Before taking the Hurricane Turn Train out of Talkeetna, we spent a little time in town using the free WiFi at the public library and checking out some of the sights.  As you might expect, driving and parking a large 29' motor home creates some challenges when visiting small towns with narrow roads and lots of people walking around.  On my personal agenda for the hour or so we had were (1) Talkeetna Roadhouse for their famous breakfast rolls, (2) a visit to the Denali National Park ranger station to get my NPS Passport stamped; and (3) see if I might have an opportunity to chat with Talkeetna Mayor Stubbs . . . the elected mayor of the town who just happens to be a cat!

Mayor Stubbs must have been out catnapping on the job, as he was nowhere to be found around Nagley's General Store.

Inside the Denali NP Ranger Station in Talkeena

I did enjoy my visit to the Talkeetna Ranger Station, as I looked around to learn more about those who aspire to climb Mt. Denali.  This is the starting point for anyone who wishes to attempt to summit The Great One.  During my visit, a couple stopped in to pick up information for their daughter who had recently reached the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro earlier this year.

Respectfully, the ranger responded commenting how relatively easy climbing "that mountain" is when compared to Denali largely due to the weather variables involved on the Alaskan Range.  The couple seemed appreciative of the ranger's candor as it appeared they were not too excited to have their child attempt the climb.

This year, over 1,100 climbers from around the world attempted the trek to the summit . . . around 60% made it.  Unfortunately, there were two fatalities in 2016.

Down the block from the Talkeetna Roadhouse is the David Lawrence-Harry Robb Cabin. Built in 1924 by homesteaders who settled here as the railroad was being built through Alaska.  This railroad era one-room dry cabin is typical to what was found throughout the region in the early 20th century.

Palmer Area
After our day in Talkeenta, we headed further south to Palmer.  Back in 2010 we spent some time in Palmer, including the Alaska State Fair and the Knik River Glacier (jetboat) tour.  In 2014 our schedule didn't really allow for much time there at all, so I was happy that this year we would have more time to visit local attractions that are popular with visitors from around the world!

First up, the Musk Ox Farm!  I've had this local Mat-Su Valley farm penciled in on every trip we've made to Alaska . . . and finally, we made it happen.  A very interesting and educational tour is provided to visitors in small groups.  Since we were visiting on a Saturday morning, groups of 10-15 were being led out about every 30 minutes.  Our guide Suzanne was a perky local girl who clearly loved working on the farm with these magnificent animals.

Musk Ox have direct lineage to the prehistoric Ice Age here on Earth.  The animals in Alaska have been domesticated for the purpose of research and to help further the agricultural economy of Native Alaskans.  These animals produce a unique, under coat of wool that is combed and then spun into yarn.  This extraordinarily warm wool is called qiviut.  Native Alaskan women knit hats, gloves and other apparel items that are sold to help support their families.

Due to the very limited supply, qiviut is significantly more expensive than wool from other animals . . . to the tune of $95 per two ounce skein.  In the gift shop I looked at a couple of scarves and hats that ranged in price from $180 to $300.

There is an $11pp admission fee which goes to support the work of this 501(c)3 educational not-for-profit organization.  There are two 2:1 discount coupons in the Northern Lights book as well.  A family of four would need two coupons to get in for half price ($22 vs. $44).

Independence Mine State Historical Park
Another casualty of tight scheduling in the past, we were fortunate to have time to spend the afternoon at this ghost town that was once a thriving gold mining community.  The drive up started out with cloudy but dry skies.  By the time we reached Independence Mine, however, we were high up in the rain clouds . . . and rain it did!

We took the opportunity to let the rain subside while having lunch in the RV.  As with most areas of Alaska, people were enjoying their day in spite of the weather. It was amazing how many people we saw hiking with their dogs.

Once the rain let up, we put on our rain gear and set off to check out the visitor center and one of the bunk houses that had been converted to a historical museum and gift shop. Many of the buildings have fallen into disrepair, collapsing to the ground.  Visitors are warned about the deterioration and hazards around several areas.  Hopefully the State of Alaska will fund the restoration necessary to make this a first class historical park experience.

We enjoyed walking around and checking out the 20+ buildings and historical exhibits throughout the grounds.  Due to the increasing rain, and my gimpy knees, we did not venture up the walking path to the top of the open mining area.

 






Mantanuska Glacier State Recreation Site
This was a repeat stop for us, having boondock camped here back in 2014.  On a clear day, visitors are treated to a spectacular view of the Matanuska Glacier from a well developed and maintained viewing platform.  There are two large parking lots plus a small wooded campground with 12 sites available for $20/night.  We opted to overnight in one of the larger parking lots due to the number of mosquitoes in the woods.

Walking around the grounds, we were thrilled that the raspberries were ripe and plentiful.  We picked enough to have for a couple of evenings over ice cream.  We also found several piles of moose scat, providing a cautionary warning while walking about the area.

For anyone looking to hike down to the glacier face, there is no access from this recreational area.  Rather, you must pay for access or take a hiking tour from MICA Guides.  I know several people who have done the glacier hike with MICA and all have been thoroughly pleased with the experience.

With our three days in the Mat-Su Valley over, our journey on to Valdez would continue on Sunday.  We woke up to cloudy skies and continued on again/off again rain.  To be continued . . .